Sunday, May 13, 2018

Day 8: May 13, 2018 - Frankfurt, Houston

Got up at 3:00 am and got ready for the long journey home. We caught a cab at 4:00 am and arrived at the Madrid airport at 4:30 am. Check-in and Security went easily. Before we left IAH a week ago, we paid extra for my seat selection on Lufthansa, both from Madrid to Frankfurt AND from Frankfurt to Houston. In both cases, we booked an isle seat. However, on the Madrid to Frankfurt, was placed in a middle seat and the flight was full. The Madrid to Frankfurt flight was only 2.5 hours in duration, so it was not so bad. Laura was excited about the Frankfurt to Houston flight as it was to be on an Airbus A380 (double decker). However, we discovered our Lufthansa flight from Frankfurt to Houston had been canceled and we were instead booked on a United Boeing 777 flight departing three hours later. Plus, this flight is also booked completely and both Laura and I have an 11 hour flight in middle seats to look forward to this afternoon. Instead of arriving at 1:45 pm in Houston, it will be 5:40 pm. We will be lucky to get to the house by 7:00 pm local time. A 19 hour travel day. Right now, we are having lunch.

We made it, arriving at Laura’s house at 7:00 pm, local time, 23 hours after getting up this morning in Madrid. A long day.

So ends our taste of the Camino. Not counting the short tour of Madrid, during the 5.5 days of the Camino, I walked 49 miles which included 5,100 feet of elevation gain.

Observations and lessons learned:

  • I have never been on a tour with this level of activity before, but look forward to doing another. In fact, I've asked Maxine to look into an Iceland trip for me in July of this year.
  • The ability to take in the surrounding environment at a gradual pace was nice, as opposed to trying to capture the moment looking out the window of a bus.
  • This was a nice sized tour group. There were 15 guests and by the time the week was over, even I had learned most of their names.
  • The routes selected ensured you were exposed to the most interesting and scenic parts of the country. At the beginning of each day, we were presented with an "instruction" sheet of the route. These were often a little vague and some hikers (like myself) sometimes took the wrong path. They always found us however and at the end of the week, they had the same number of guests as they began with.
  • During the tour itself, we stayed two nights in two different hotels and one night in a third. It was nice not to have to pack/unpack every single day.
  • I was uncertain about my ability to "keep up" with the level of activity I really wanted to achieve. I found however, that I was satisfied with my abilities, but could do better and get more enjoyment if I were in better shape.
  • As for the dining experiences, we enjoyed it all, but some observations:
    • At least in the part Europe we visited this trip, don't confuse them with requests for coffee with cream. Instead, ask for coffee with milk.
    • The scrabbled eggs were usually runny and the bacon very underdone per our customs. Laura said she actually avoided the bacon due to its degree of doneness. I noticed the lack of flavor in the bacon, probably due to how they cure it relative to our customs.
    • The coffee was extremely strong (espresso-like) and, if you allow them to add milk for you, they use A LOT of milk as a diluent
    • Always presented with the option of "still" or "con gas" (sparkling) water
    • Salt and pepper were not normally found at the table
  • Despite being old and out-of-shape, the biggest physical issue I had was with my feet getting sore and developing the occasional blister.
    • The Moleskin padded tape I took was absolutely essential. I could not have made it without this stuff. One of the guides (Keith) told me that he thought Compeed pads were superior to Moleskin and gave me some to try. They helped, but I thought Moleskin was better. Later, one of the other guides told me that Moleskin is not easily found outside the US.
    • The Body Glide Original Anti-Chafe Balm also proved useful.
  • The flexibility to adjust your level of activity to accommodate your abilities and desires on a daily basis was reassuring.
  • I thought I was over-packing, but ended up using most everything I took. I wish I had taken a little more underwear. The only thing I did not use (thankfully) was my rain gear and heavy clothing. The weather was perfect. I also did not use my swimsuit.
  • The long flight from Newark to Porto and from Frankfurt to Houston was not too bad, but I will explore Business Class or First Class seating for the long hauls going forward.
  • Need to take more small denomination local currency to cover tips and incidentals. Also need to do more upfront research on local gratuity expectations. We discovered that, on this trip, following our tipping customs from the US, we were far exceeding local gratuity expectations. While we encountered no "refusals" we did observe some raised eyebrows.
  • Thankfully, the electrical adapters I took worked well.
  • We lost very little stuff considering the number of different locations we spent the nights. Might have lost one of my electrical adapters (two prong Type E/F). If so, I need to get a replacement.

Saturday, May 12, 2018

Day 7: Madrid

We slept in late, not getting up until around 8:00 am. We went downstairs for a hearty breakfast before meeting Maxine and Joan and our guide for the day, Gerardo Rapazzo Amura. He was a fabulous guide.




We drove around the city for awhile with Gerardo pointing out the major buildings and explaining how the city has expanded over the centuries. Our first stop was at the Plaza Mayor. This weekend they are celebrating the day of the Madrid's patron saint San Isidro, so there are signs of performances and celebrations everywhere.

One of the nine entries to the Plaza Mayor


Rent-a-bike

Inside the Plaza Mayor





San Isidor


One of the nine entries to the Plaza Mayor

Exterior walls of the Plaza Mayor
We got a tour of the Casa Botin restaurant, the oldest continuously in-business restaurant in the world. One of Ernest Hemingway's favorite places while he lived in Madrid. We got to tour the kitchen and see how they prepare their famous suckling pig (3 month old piggies). Gerardo asked if any of us were vegetarians before going in so as not to shock anyone.
Today's entrance to Casa Botin


Suckling Pig, ready to eat

Casa Botin, established 1725, photo taken in 1887


Suckling pigs in various states of preparation

Roasting a pig in the Casa Botin oven

Casa Botin bar

Casa Botin wine cellar

Casa Botin downstairs

Wooden stairs to downstairs...fire trap

Original entrance to Casa Botin

Olives at the Mercado de San Miguel

Sidewalk plate signifying a shop is at least 100 years old

Original City Administration Building...just moved to larger quarters in 2010
Pastry shop where Gerardo treated us to some local delights




New cathedral with no historical significance across from the Palacio Real

Palacio Real (Royal Palace of Madrid)








The last hour or so of our guided tour, we visited the Museo del Prado (Spanish national art museum). One could spend days to try to see it all. Gerardo showed us a few of his favorites. It was delightful. No photos allowed.

The tour ended and we were free to roam the City for the remainder of the day. We did not go far.

Lunch tapas with the ladies

Our room at the Hotel Orfila


Tonight we are having an informal final dinner with Maxine and Joan. We will be leaving the hotel at 4:00 am tomorrow morning to catch our 6:10 am flight. Maxine and Joan are staying another night. We are heading home, they are heading to Barcelona for a few days.

Our journey will take just over 14 hours putting into IAH about 1:45 pm Sunday afternoon.



Friday, May 11, 2018

Day 6: Camino Finisterrre, Rio Sarela, Santiago de Compostella, Madrid

Day's walking summary. Laura and I both put in a leisurely three mile hike from the hotel to the Cathedral this morning. We traveled backwards on a portion of the Camino Finisterrre (an extension of the Camino that leads to the Atlantic...known as "the end of the earth" before they knew better) using a little traveled path along the Rio Sarela. The weather was overcast, very cool and breezy, but it was a beautiful and invigorating walk.

Hotel A Quinto da Auga

The Cathedral steeples in the distance where we will end today's hike

Getting closer

Rio Sarela

Pigeon Roost

Laura walking a boardwalk along the river

Wisteria along the river

Entering Santiago, Cathedral just over the roof tops


Chapel just south across street from Cathedral

Inside chapel

Street leading to Cathedral

Courtyard of the University building

Isabel, our guide through the Cathedral

Silversmith courtyard outside south Cathedral entrance. The building facing the entrance is nothing but a facade, no depth to it. But it looks good.

Cathedral Alter


Isabel told us that the swinging of the giant incense burner is done occasionally, but not often and not on any schedule. They just swing it when they are in the mood. Apparently, last night (after we left Mass) they were in the mood. She said the incense burner swings between the north wing and the south wing of the Cathedral. These are the wings through which the stinky, bug and disease ridden pilgrims would occupy. The swinging of the incense burner across these two wings served as an air freshener and bug fumigator.
Incense Burner

Organ pipes


Holy Door or Door of Forgiveness. Only opened on St. Jame's Day during a Jubilee Year (when St. Jame's Day falls on a Sunday...next to happen on July 25, 2021)


We saw the tomb of St. James and "hugged" his statute (I patted him on the shoulder) behind the alter.

After the tour, we shuttled back to the hotel, finished packing and had a great tapas lunch before ending the tour. Laura and I were taken to the Santiago Airport and we caught a flight to Madrid, arriving a little after 7:00 pm. We checked in at the Hotel Orfila and had dinner with Max and Joan at the hotel.

Tomorrow, we take a four hour overview tour of Madrid. We will stay Saturday night at the Hotel Orfila and fly home on Sunday.

Laura has not tallied up her numbers yet, but, over the past six days, I have walked 49 miles during which included 5,100 feet of elevation gain.

Day 8: May 13, 2018 - Frankfurt, Houston

Got up at 3:00 am and got ready for the long journey home. We caught a cab at 4:00 am and arrived at the Madrid airport at 4:30 am. Check-in...